Series: Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing
Paperback: 608 pages
Publisher: McGraw-Hill Education; 6 edition (September 2, 2005)
Product Dimensions: 7.3 x 1.4 x 9.3 inches
Shipping Weight: 2.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review: 4.2 out of 5 stars See all reviews (73 customer reviews)
Best Sellers Rank: #66,238 in Books (See Top 100 in Books) #8 in Books > Engineering & Transportation > Engineering > Materials & Material Science > Metallurgy #33 in Books > Crafts, Hobbies & Home > Crafts & Hobbies > Metal Work #19195 in Books > Reference
Much of this book talks about obsolete locks and outdated methods. The chapter on Automotive Locksmithing might be helpful if you're working on cars from the 1960s and 1970s but there's almost nothing there about transponder keys. The chapter on Master Keying has so many mistakes in it, it's not even funny. The sample master key system he gives at the end has key interchange (keys operating the wrong locks), and he didn't even use two-step progression (which everyone knows is standard procedure for locks with 10 depths like Schlage, Sargent, and Yale).The only nice thing I can say about this book is that it probably took a long time to put it together and I respect the effort. But if you're looking to learn about locksmithing, I'd say one third of this book is useful, one third of it is outdated and useless, and one third of it is just plain wrong. The worst part is that, if you're a novice, you won't be able to tell which is which.
I have several editions of "the Complete Book of Locks and Locksmithing." They're all good. I've learned a lot from them. But the sixth edition is by far the best. I especially like the sections on lock picking, impressioning, and selling safes.
This book is well written. It covers basic information that will be helpful to budding locksmiths. The book touches just about any matter that a locksmith will encounter. It is laid out well and has many pictures and diagrams. Some of the reviews listed for this book are a tad overblown...but this book would definitely be a good one to have if you are studying locksmithing.
I got this book because it is the reference material for Oregon state's licensing exam and it is published by McGraw-Hill which is who published most of the text books I am familiar with. First off there are better more recent editions and I am pretty sure the organization in charge of the certification exam in the back of this book has either went under or was non existent to begin with. It explains things pretty well but there is no glossary for unfamiliar terms. In my opinion it could have excluded 2 or 3 maybe even 4 chapters of fluff BS and added a glossary. Entire chapters and segments have relatively little to no useful information.
Great book and very detailed in labeling and diagramming the internal mechanisms of a "Typical" Home door lock.I have a good 2 year experience at assembling locks and switching the cores for new key replacements and reshaping the metal nubs. This book was a good refresher on some techniques I missed out on.I mainly got this book to get a better understanding of how to open door locks more efficiently with power tools, and be more aware of the variety of locks available out there. Some of the locks illustrated in the book are almost 10 years old and some people say those locks are outdated. But just because a certain lock is outdated doesn't mean it's no longer in use. Some people are resistant to changing their locks, and the longer they keep their old locks means lock smiths need to have a good variety of knowledge of all the locks out there in circulation.A great book to read. Its spread out like a Physics Textbook starting off with vectors and then bringing you into the meat of the lock. No actual Physics Math required, but some knowledge on torque is a must.I have considered other books such as:>>>Practical Lock Picking, Second Edition: A Physical Penetration Tester's Training GuideHOWEVER, the reviews were very contradictory and seems to convince readers into buying "specialty" tools made by the author or some specific lock maker with tools up to $300.TL:DR; For Power-drilling through locks, a certain sized drill-bit is required and long enough to go "almost" straight through. The Idea is to destroy how it can "ID" a key. I won't spoil too much of the fun of breaking through locks this way, as the book explains it more thoroughly in context and technique.LOVE THIS BOOK.
This is the standard by which the C28 Lock and Security Contractor Exam is based. The rest of the C28 uses California Building Code, NFPA 80, and NEC. There are only a few things are deeply disagree with Mr. Phillips on, even though I have only been a Locksmith now for less than a decade, I cannot use graphite in modern locks. It is not only a conductive substance its messy, turns to mud when moist, and I just don't think its a useful lubricant beyond old mortise locks which effectively encase all that graphite within the door. Finally, the wiring diagrams leave alot to be desired and the rectifier and transformer pictograms in the silent strike diagram, for example, is on the state test but it is a really sloppy diagram. Perhaps it is purposely obfuscated to make it harder to guess what components are what. Maybe as a journeyman Locksmith in the 21st century I am spoiled but there isn't nearly enough about trim, exotic and upscale, high tech, IoT, bluetooth, cracking, hacking, or Information Security. Bill's going to have to mention Kali Linux and Prox hacking, newer Automotive technology, etc. to stay relevant.
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